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I walked past the right restaurants six times before a cab driver finally told me where to go. These plates are the reason people fall in love with Rome, and most first-timers never find them.



















A friend told me Naples was sketchy and to skip it. That friend was wrong and also has terrible taste. The food here hits different because Neapolitans treat cooking like a competitive sport.

















Everyone goes to Tuscany for the views and the wine. Fair enough. But the food here is deliberately simple, almost aggressively so, and that confidence is what makes it incredible.



















Everyone beelines for Rome and Florence. Meanwhile, Bologna, Milan, and the lakes are sitting there with some of the richest food on the peninsula and half the crowds.



















Most first-timers skip Sicily because it feels far. That's a mistake I made and then corrected on trip two. The food here is louder, bolder, and pulls from Arab, Greek, and Spanish influences all at once.



















Coming home from Italy is depressing. The food withdrawal hits around day three. These are the tools and ingredients I bought so my kitchen could at least attempt what I ate over there.

















