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The carriage ride is open-air and the temple has almost no shade. I got sunburned through my shirt the first time, which I didn't even know was possible.










Once you're on that carriage and heading to the temple, there's nowhere to buy water that isn't wildly overpriced. Learned that one the expensive way.










The temple floors are uneven limestone, and some areas have loose gravel. I watched someone in flip-flops nearly twist an ankle on the ramp leading inside.










Edfu Temple has some of the most detailed carvings in Egypt, but the interior halls are dark and the outside is blindingly bright. Plus, dust gets everywhere.










Nobody warns you that the carriage ride is bumpy, dusty, and about 15 minutes each way through a small town. Here's what made it actually enjoyable.










It's a working archaeological site with some dress expectations, and the temperature swings between blazing courtyard and cool dark halls caught me off guard.










Most Nile cruises dock at Edfu early morning. Breakfast on the ship is rushed, and there's nothing to eat near the temple that won't upset your stomach.










Your cruise guide will cover the basics, but having your own reference made the carvings and hieroglyphs so much more meaningful. I stared at walls blankly my first visit because I had no context.








